![]() ![]() The framework is made of straight, light sticks. ![]() You will find it easier to use one of the round, flat whistles that are sold very cheaply, but if you are one of those boys or girls who prefer to do everything your own way, you can easily make a whistle as shown. The sketches show clearly how the kite is made up, in the shape of a boy, the whistle in this case being placed in the boy's mouth. This week we give directions for making a whistling kite of a rather unusual design. The tail is then complete and ready to be fastened to the bottom of the kite for convenience of carrying, it is better to keep it rolled up, and to fasten it on only when the kite is in its field from which it is to be flown.ĪMONG the people of the Far East (who are the world's kite experts) whistling kites are common. A paper tassel tied to the end of the tail forms a graceful finish. The tail papers should be tied on by noose knots, and at intervals or from three to four inches. It should, however, never be less than twelve times the length of the kite, and the longer it is the better, so long- as the kite is big enough to carry it. Its length depends on the size of the kite and the weight of the string and paper out of which the tail is made, together with, a number of other considerations, all of which experience will soon point out. Ordinarily, the tail is a long string with pieces of folded paper fastened on to it at regular intervals. The kite proper is now complete but as the kite cannot fly without a tail, the construction of that appendage is next to be proceeded with. Through these holes a string is to be passed and fastened at the back of the kite this string is known as the 'belly-band,' and to it is fastened the string by which the kite is flown. ![]() ![]() covering to the backbone two holes should be pierced therein, the one at the fifth of the whole length from the top, the other at a trifle less than the same distance from the bottom. Calico, or materials of that nature, may be sewn on the strings and bow instead of being pasted on, and should in that way also be secured at the back to the cross strings and the backbone. Should it be found that one sheet of paper is of insufficient size, two or more sheets may be pasted together, the edges of which should overlap about an inch. If the kite is large it is also well to secure the covering to the cross strings in the same manner. The covering is to be secured to the backbone of the kite by pasting some slips of paper across the back of the kite. Having agreed to use paper as the covering, it should be cut the size of the kite, leaving a margin just sufficient to overlap the bow and the strings, so as to curl round the edges of the paper should then be fastened to the frame of the skeleton by means of gum or paste, and left to dry. It is to be remembered that small kites require to be made of thinner and lighter material than larger ones. For the largest kites, calico, silk, or thin gutta-percha cloth may be preferable, but even for these very stout paper will be found to answer every purpose. All things considered, paper is best for an all-round kite paper kites truly are very easily damaged, but then the damage is as easily repaired, and paper is inexpensive and always to hand, old newspapers serving the purpose as well as any other kind of paper. The point next to be decided is the covering. The skeleton is then complete but if the balance is not quite true, shavings from the heavier -side should be sufficient to remedy the defect. In the diagram the thick lines represent the bow and the backbone of the kite, which are made of wood, as above described the thin lines represent string, and should be secured to the wooden frame as follows :- Secure the end of the string at the point e, pass it on then in succession to the points b, f, e, A, f, h, and e, fastening the string at each point, and upon fastening the string from F to E twist it once round the backbone at the point G. A small notch is then to be cut at each end of the bow, and the bow bent down to the points marked B and p. The exact centre of the bow should be next ascertained, and fastened with thin string to that point of the backbone where the first two notches were cut. ![]()
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